09 December 2007

Ljubljana, Slovenia

I woefully regret to report that I had to postpone my Poland adventure until my next visit to Europe. I'm hoping that will be in two years...just in time for the next installment of the Biennale di Venzia. I have a lot of obligations to finishing up work in Zagreb and also the workshop I am participating in (see previous post) that my trip would have been rather abbreviated, when I go to Poland, I want to make sure I have enough time to see everything. Traveling there alone was going to take almost two days, whether by plane or train. There are no direct flights between Poland and Croatia right now, during the summer months that changes. I would have had to fly to London, land in Stansted, then get arcoss London to either Luton or Gatwick to then fly to Krakow. Connecting flights are ususally no problem, but changing airports can be a messy and time consuming prospect. In this case, it was going to be more money and time consuming than anything. The flights from Zagreb to London don't line up on the same days as London to Poland, so I need to either get a hostel, or sleep in the airport(s). The train is 20 hours and is over $200 one way. I'm certain I can fly from the US to Poland roundtrip cheaper than the continental flights round trip. I am really disappointed I couldn't make the trip, I was planning to visit a good friend there, but after telling her the possible travel arrangements, she agreed that is it too much for just the few days I would have been able to travel.

Before my decision not to go to Poland my other international friends made arrangements to rent a cabin in a National park near Zadar, a coastal city in Croatia. I told them if my plans were canceled I'd join them, but the cabin was reserved for a certain number of people. So I figured I could get a hostel, it's the off season so the hostels in Zadar require at least a three night booking, one day too long for my schedule. So, I chucked that idea too. I did, however, finally make it to Ljubljana, Slovenia. I had been intending to go earlier in my stay in Croatia, but just didn't get to it. I am so glad I did.

Ljubljana is close enough that it makes a really nice day trip, just 2 hours one way and about $30 round trip by train. I got into the city around 10am and heading for the main square, on my walk there I was thinking, "gezz this town is really dead." Once I got to the square I realized that much like Zagreb, everyone heads to the open air markets on Saturday. The city is a bit smaller than Zagreb, Old Town is quaint, and quite picturesque. I walked around the market and peeked into some churches, but mostly spent the day wandering around. There is a really nice mix of wonderful architecture ranging from the medieval castle, classical, neo classical, baroque, art deco, art nouveau, the list goes on. I coughed up the two Euro and toured the house of Ljubljana's favorite son (sorry Slajov Zizek, they must think you are too subversive or obtuse, I'm not sure which yet) Architect, Joze Plecnik. Pretty cool little house, impressive that his items were so well preserved. It's said that no one architect has shaped a city as much as Plecnik did, everywhere I turned in Ljubljana, I saw something that was of his design, neo-classical to art nouveau. He was also commissioned by the Czech King in 1921 to redesign the Hapsburg Castle in Prague. This was a controversial move since he invited a Slav, not an Austrian. His last work was done in the Croatian region of Istria for Tito. So not only was he commissioned to do work for his capital city, but also two others of neighboring countries, pretty prolific guy. Late afternoon I did the typical Central European thing and got some coffee and relaxed, waiting for dusk to see the Christmas decorations. It was worth the wait, I got a cup of hot wine (another staple that I would like to import into the US) and checked out the lights. All throughout Old Town planets, stars and comets are made from bundles of Christmas lights are hung throughout the streets and across the river. The trees are covered in blue and white lights. Quite easily one of the best light displays, even in its simplicity. I was happily exhausted and headed back to the train station around 6 or 7 and got back in to Zagreb going on 10. Pictures have already been posted on flickr and myspace, along with ones from the first foundry visit.

I am really excited for this workshop that I will be working with, as dorky as it is, I am happy to be reading some theory again (oh my God, did I just write that?). Since I am late to joining the workshop I wasn't fully aware of the goings on, and it turns out the work that is done in the workshop will be exhibited, the one leader on the Zagreb end of things wants me to get a piece together pretty quickly to be exhibited next weekend. So that will end up being two shows going on in the same week, luckily the one is pretty much an inconspicuous performance during the opening, so not much prep is needed, but this other show, my ideas might be getting a little too complex for only having a few days to pull it together. I have a meeting with my New Media professor on Monday to get everything finalized and help with completing the piece.

I'll probably only have a few more posts before I am home. That's a concept I'm struggling to fathom since there seems like, and there is, so much work for me to do between now and then. Better get to work.

--AM

PS: After some digging around (and no thanks to Wikipedia, one of the few times they have failed me), I figured out what exactly Rakija is...it's homemade Plum Brandy with a relatively low alcohol concentration compared to other similar liquors.

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